470　Bird, Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy)　(1831-1904)
Unbeaten tracks in Japan.　1880. 2 vols.

UNBEATEN TRACKS IN JAPAN, AN ACCOUNT OF TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR, INCLUDING VISITS TO THE ABORIGINES OF YEZO AND THE SHRINES OF NIKKO AND ISE, By ISABELLA L. BIRD, AUTHOR OF SIX MONTHS IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS' A LADY'S LIFE IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS' ETC. ETC. IN TWO VOLUMES.—VOL. I [-II]. WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
LONDON, JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET, 1880. [The right of translation is reserved.]
VOL. I. xxiii, 398 p., [2] leaves of plates. 21 cm.
　VOL. II. xi, [2], 383, 32 p., [1] leaf of plates. 21 cm.

[DS/809/Bi](00011824-00011825)


目　　次
VOL. I.
CONTENTS OF VOL. I.
Introductory Chapter.　1
LETTER I. First View of Japan—A Vision of Fujisan—A Hybrid City—Japanese Sampans— Pullman Cars—Undignified Locomotion—Paper Money—The Drawbacks of Japanese Travelling.　12-21
LETTER II. Sir Harry Parkes—An Ambassador's Carriage—Blurs and Hieroglyphs—Cart Coolies—A supposed Concession to Foreign Opinion—Regulations.　22-25
LETTER III. Yedo and Tokiyo—The Yokohama Railroad—The Effect of Misfits—The Plain of Yedo—Personal Peculiarities—First Impressions of Tokiyo—H. B. M.'s Legation—An English Home.　26-31
LETTER IV. Lifeless Heat—Street Sights in Tokiyo—The Foreign Concession—The Missionary Quarter—Architectural Vulgarities—The Imperial Gardens—Costume and Behaviour—Female Inelegance.　32-39
LETTER V. Narrow Grooves—Topics of Talk—A Pair of Ponies—The Shrines of Shiba— Afternoon Tea—The English Church.　40-43
LETTER VI. Dr. Hepburn—The Yokohama Bluff— John Chinaman—Chinese Compradores—Engaging a servant—First Impressions of Ito—A Solemn Contract—The Food Question.　44-52
LETTER VII. Theatrical Reform—The Ancient Drama—The Modern Theatre—The Stage—The Opening of a Reformed Theatre—The Players—The Opening Address—Moral Reforms—Exasperating Noises—A Comic Pastoral.　53-61
LETTER VIII. Kwan-non Temple—Uniformity of Temple Architecture—A Kuruma Expedition—A Perpetual Festival—The Ni-o—The Limbo of Vanity—Heathen Prayers—Binzuru—The Fox-God—A Group of Devils—Floral Monstrosities—Japanese Womankind—New Japan—An Elegante.　62-78
LETTER IX. Fears—Travelling Equipment—Passports—Coolie Costume—A Yedo Diorama—Rice Culture—Tea Houses—A Traveller's Reception—The Inn at Kasukabe—Lack of Privacy—A Concourse of Noises—A Nocturnal Alarm—A Vision of Policemen—A Budget from Yedo.　79-93
LETTER IX.—(Continued.) A Coolie falls ill—Peasant Costume—Varieties in Threshing—The Tochigi Yadoya—Farming Villages—A Beautiful Region—An In Memoriam Avenue—A Doll's Street—Nikko—The Journey's End—Coolie Kindliness.　94-103
LETTER X. A Japanese Idyll—Musical stillness—My Rooms—Floral Decorations—Kanaya and his Household—Table Equipments.　104-107
LETTER XI. The Beauties of Nikko—The Burial of Iyeyasu—The Approach to the great Shrines—The Yomei Gate—Gorgeous Decorations—Simplicity of the Mausoleum—The Shrine of Iyemitsu—Religious Art of Japan and India—An Earthquake—Beauties of Wood-carving.　108-118
LETTER XII. A Japanese Pack-horse and Pack-saddle—The Mountain-road to Chiuzenjii—A Deserted Village—The Pilgrim Season—Rose Azaleas—Yadoya and Attendant—A native Watering-place—The Sulphur Baths—A Squeeze—A welcome Arrival.　119-127
LETTER XIII. Peaceful Monotony—A Japanese School—A dismal Ditty—Punishment—A Children's Party—A juvenile Belle—Female Names—A juvenile Drama—Needlework—Calligraphy—Kanaya—Daily Routine—An Evening's Entertainment—Planning Routes—The god-shelf.　128-136
LETTER XIII.—(Continued.) Darkness visible—Nikko Shops—Girls and Matrons—Night and Sleep—Parental Love—Childish Docility—Hair-dressing—Skin Diseases—The Moxa—Acupuncture.　137-141
LETTER XIII.— (Completed.) Shops and Shopping—Calculations—The Barber's Shop—A Paper Water-proof—Ito's Vanity—The Worship of Daikoku—Preparations for the Journey—Transport and Prices—Money and Measurements.　142-146
LETTER XIV. Comfort disappears—Fine Scenery—An Alarm—A Farm-house—An unusual Costume—Bridling a Horse—Female Dress and Ugliness—Babies—My Mago—Beauties of the Kinugawa—A Buddhist Cemetery—Fujihara—My Servant—Horse-shoes—An absurd Mistake.　147-162
LETTER XV. A Fantastic Jumble—The Quiver of Poverty—The Watershed—From Bad to Worse—The Rice Planter's Holiday—A Diseased Crowd—Amateur Doctoring—The Hot Bath—Want of Cleanliness—Insanitary Houses—Rapid Eating—Premature Old Age.　163-169
LETTER XV.—(Concluded). A Japanese Ferry—The Wistaria Chinensis—The Crops—A Chinese Drug—Etiquette in Cultivation—A Corrugated Road—The Pass of Sanno—Various Vegetation—An Ungainly Undergrowth—Preponderance of Men—The Shrines of Nature-worship—Apparent Decay of Religion.　170-175
LETTER XVI. The Plain of Wakamatsu—A Noble Tree—Light Costume—The Takata Crowd—Japanese Paper—A Congress of Schoolmasters—Timidity of a Crowd—Bad Roads—Vicious Horses—Mountain Scenery—A Picturesque Inn—Swallowing a Fish-bone—Poverty and Suicide—An Inn-kitchen—England Unknown !—My Breakfast Disappears.　176-185
LETTER XVII. An Infamous Road—Monotonous Greenery—Abysmal Dirt—Low Lives—The Lacquer Tree—Lacquer Poisoning—The Wax Tree and Wax Candles—The Tsugawa Yadoya—Politeness—A Shipping Port—A Barbarian Devil.　186-190
LETTER XVIII. A Hurry—The Tsugawa Packet-boat—Running the Rapids—Fantastic Scenery—The River-life—Vineyards—Drying Barley—Summer Silence—The Outskirts of Niigata—The Church Mission House.　191-194
NOTES ON MISSIONS IN NIIGATA.
Christian Missions—Niigata as a Mission Station —The two Missionaries—The result of three Years of Work—Daily Preaching—The Medical Mission—The Hospital—Difficulties of Missionaries in Japan.　196-206
LETTER XIX. Temple Street—Interior of a Temple—Resemblances between Buddhist and Roman Ritual—A Popular Preacher—Nirvana—Gentleness of Buddhism—Japanese distaste to Eternal Life—A new Obstacle in the way of Christianity.　207-212
LETTER XX. Abominable Weather—Insect Pests—Absence of Foreign Trade—A refractory River—Progress—The Japanese City—Water Highways—Niigata Gardens—Ruth Fyson—The Winter Climate—A Population in Wadding.　213-219
LETTER XXI. Mean Streets—Curio Shops—Idealised Tubs—Hair-Pins—Coarse Lacquer—Graven Images—Ecclesiastical Paraphernalia—Shoddy—Book-sellers' Shops—Literature for Women—Careful Domestic Training—Literary Copyright—Book-Binding—Paper Lanterns—Blue China—Quack Medicines—Criticism.　220-228
LETTER XXI.—(Concluded.) The Absurd in Shopping—Sadness and Jubilation—Condensed Milk—Lemon Sugar—Essence of Coffee—Shameless Impositions—Rose Dentifrice—Ito—Provender for the Journey.　229-231
NOTES ON FOOD AND COOKERY.
Fish and Soy—The use of Game and Poultry—Varieties of Vegetables—The Raphanus Sativus—Tastelessness of Fruits—Cakes and Sweetmeats—Cleanliness and Economy in Cooking—Cooking Utensils—Vivisection—Soups—Formal Entertainments—Beverages—The Diet of the Poor.　232-240
LETTER XXII. The Canal-side at Niigata—Awful Loneliness—Courtesy—Dr. Palm's Tandem—A Noisy Matsuri—A Jolting Journey—The Mountain Villages—Winter Dismalness—An Out-of-the-world Hamlet—Crowded Dwellings—Riding a Cow— Drunk and Disorderly—An Enforced Rest—Local Discouragements—Heavy Loads—Absence of Beggary—Slow Travelling.　241-250
LETTER XXIII. Comely Kine—Japanese Criticism on a Foreign Usage—A Pleasant Halt—Renewed Courtesies—The Plain of Yonezawa—A Curious Mistake—The Mother's Memorial—The Judgments of Hades—Arrival at Komatsu—Stately Accommodation—Latitude in Speech—Silk and Silk Culture—A Vicious Horse—An Asiatic Arcadia—A Fashionable Watering-place—A Belle— Godowns—The God of Wealth.　251-266
LETTER XXIV. Prosperity—Convict Labour —A New Bridge—Yamagata—Intoxicating Forgeries—The Government Buildings—Bad Manners—A Filature—Snow Mountains—A Wretched Town.　267-281
LETTER XXV. The Effect of a Chicken—Poor Fare—Slow Travelling—Stone Ropes—Objects of Interest—Kak'ke—The Fatal Close—Predisposing Causes—A Great Fire—Security of the Kuras.　282-285
LETTER XXV.—(Continued.) Lunch in Public—A Grotesque Accident—Police Enquiries—Man or Woman ?—A Melancholy Stare—A Vicious Horse—An Ill-favoured Town—A Disappointment—A Torii.　286-295
LETTER XXV.—(Concluded.) A Casual Invitation—A Ludicrous Incident—Politeness of a Policeman—A Comfortless Sunday—An Outrageous Irruption—A Privileged Stare.　296-298
LETTER XXVI. The Necessity of Firmness—Perplexing Misrepresentations—Gliding with the Stream—Suburban Residences—The Kubota Hospital—A Formal Reception—Bad Nursing—The Antiseptic Treatment—A Well-arranged Dispensary—The Normal School—Contrasts and Incongruities.　299-306
LETTER XXVII. A Silk Factory—Employment for Women—A Police Escort—The Japanese Police Force—A Ruined Castle—The increasing Study of Law.　307-309
LETTER XXVIII. A Plague of Immoderate Rain—A Confidential Servant—Ito's Diary—Ito's Excellences—Ito's Faults—A Prophecy of the Future of Japan—Curious Queries—Superfine English—Economical Travelling—The Japanese Pack-horse again.　310-314
LETTER XXIX. The Symbolism of Seaweed—Afternoon Visitors—An Infant Prodigy—A Feat in Caligraphy—Child Worship—The Japanese Seal—A Borrowed Dress—Marriage Arrangements—A Trousseau—House Furniture—The Marriage Ceremony—A Wife's Position—Code of Morals for Women.　315-326
LETTER XXX. A Holiday Scene—A Matsuri—Attractions of the Revel—Matsuri Cars—Gods and Demons—Tableaux vivants—A possible Harbour—A Village Forge—Prosperity of Sake Brewers—The Introduction of Sake into Japan—Sake and Revenue—A great Sight.　327-335
LETTER XXXI. The Fatigues of Travelling—Torrents and Mud—Ito's Surliness—The Blind Shampooers—Guilds of the Blind—A supposed Monkey Theatre—A Suspended Ferry—A Difficult Transit—Perils on the Yonetsuru-gawa—A Boatman Drowned—Nocturnal Disturbances—A noisy Yadoya—Storm-bound Travellers—Hai! Hai!—More Nocturnal Disturbances.　336-346
LETTER XXXII. Good-tempered Intoxication—The Effect of Sunshine—A tedious Altercation— Harassed Interests—Foreign Requirements—Village Doings—Homogeneity of Japan—Evening Occupations—Noisy Talk—Social Gatherings—Unfair Comparisons.　347-354
LETTER XXXIII. Torrents of Rain—An Unpleasant Detention—Devastations produced by Floods—The Yadate Pass—The Force of Water—Difficulties thicken—A Primitive Yadoya—The Water rises.　355-362
LETTER XXXIII.—(Continued.) Scanty Resources—Japanese Children—Children's Games—A Sagacious Example—A Kite Competition—Alphabet Cards—Contagious Merriment—Popular Proverbs—Personal Privations.　363-369
LETTER XXXIV. Hope deferred—Effects of the Flood—Activity of the Police—A Ramble in Disguise—The Tanabata Festival—Mr. Satow's Reputation—The Weaving Woman.　370-373
LETTER XXXV. A Lady's Toilet—Hair-dressing—Paint and Cosmetics—Afternoon Visitors—Christian Converts—Popular Superstitions—Wraiths and Apparitions—Spiritualism—Omens and Dreams—Love and Revenge.　374-386
LETTER XXXVI. A Travelling Curiosity—Rude Dwellings—Primitive Simplicity—The Public Bath-house—Solemn Queries—The Few Stripes—A Trembling Hope.　387-391
LETTER XXXVII. A hard Day's Journey—An Overturn—Nearing the Ocean—Joyful Excitement—Universal Greyness—Inopportune Policemen—A Stormy Voyage—A wild Welcome—A Windy landing—The Journey's End.　392-396
VOL. II.
CONTENTS OF VOL. II.
NOTES ON YEZO.
Physical Characteristics—The Colonisation Department—The New Capital—The Fisheries—Hakodate—A Vigilant Police—The Hairy Ainos—Yezo Fascinations.　1-10
LETTER XXXVIII. Form and Colour—A Windy Capital—Eccentricities in House Roofs—Social Dulness—Mission Agencies—A Disorderly Service—Daily Preaching—A Buddhist Temple—A Buddhist Sermon.　11-19
LETTER XXXIX. Ito's Delinquency— Missionary Manners—A Predicted Failure—A Japanese Doctor—The Hakodate Hospital—The Prison—Prison Amenities—Chrysanthemum Culture—The Bon Festival—A Holiday-making Crowd.　20-25
LETTER XL. A Lovely Sunset—An Official Letter—A Front Horse—Japanese Courtes—Sedentary Amusements—The Steam Ferry—Coolies Abscond—Team of Savages—A Drive of Horses—Floral Beauties—An Unbeaten Track—A Ghostly Dwelling—Solitude and Eeriness.　26-44
LETTER XL.—(Continued.) The Harmonies of Nature—A Good Horse—A Single Discord—A Forest—Aino Ferrymen— Les Puces! Les Puces!—Baffled Explorers—Ito's Contempt for Ainos—An Aino Introduction.　45-48
LETTER XLI. Savage Life—A Forest Track—Cleanly Villages—A Hospitable Reception—The Chief's Mother—The Evening Meal—A Savage Seance—Libations to the Gods—Nocturnal Silence—Aino Courtesy—The Chief's Wife.　49-60
LETTER XLI—(Continued.) A Supposed Act of Worship—Parental Tenderness—Morning Visits—Wretched Cultivation—Honesty and Generosity—A Dug-out—Female Occupations—The Ancient Fate—A New Arrival—A Perilous Prescription—The Shrine of Yoshitsune—The Chief's Return.　61-72
LETTER XLII. Barrenness of Savage Life—Irreclaimable Savages—The Aino Physique—Female Comeliness—Torture and Ornament—Child Life—Docility and Obedience.　73-81
LETTER XLII.—(Continued.) Aino Clothing—Holiday Dress—Domestic Architecture—Household Gods—Japanese Curios—The Necessaries of Life—Clay Soup—Arrow Poison—Arrow Traps—Female Occupations—Bark Cloth—The Art of Weaving.　82-93
LETTER XLII.—(Continued.) A Simple Nature Worship—Aino Gods—A Festival Song—Religious Intoxication—Bear Worship—The Annual Saturnalia—The Future State—Marriage and Divorce—Musical Instruments—Etiquette—The Chieftainship—Death and Burial—Old Age—Moral Qualities.　94-108
LETTER XLIII. A Parting Gift—A Delicacy—Generosity—A Seaside Village—Pipichari's Advice—A Drunken Revel—Ito's Prophecies—The Kocho's Illness—Patent Medicines.　109-112
LETTER XLIV. A Welcome Gift—Recent Changes—Volcanic Phenomena—Interesting Tufa Cones—An Aggressive Trailer—Semi-strangulation—A Fall into a Bear-trap—The Shiraoi Ainos—Horsebreaking and Cruelty.　113-122
LETTER XLIV.—(Continued.) The Universal Language—The Yezo Corrals—A Typhoon Rain—Difficult Tracks—An Unenviable Ride—Drying Clothes—A Woman's Remorse.　123-126
LETTER XLV. More than Peace—Geographical Difficulties—Usu-taki—A Garden Region—Swimming the Osharu—A Dream of Beauty—A Sunset Effect—A Nocturnal Alarm—The Coast Ainos.　127-135
LETTER XLV.—(Continued.) The Sea-shore—A Hairy Aino—A Horse Fight—The Horses of Yezo— Bad Mountains—A Slight Accident—Magnificent Scenery—A Bleached Halting-Place—A Musty Room—Aino Good-breeding. 136-142
LETTER XLVI. A Group of Fathers—The Lebunge Ainos—The Salisburia adiantifolia—A Family Group—The Missing Link—Oshamambe—A Horse Fight—The River Yurapu—The Seaside—Sagacity of Crows—Outwitting a Dog—Aino Canoes—The Volcano of Komono-taki—The Last Morning—Dodging Europeans.　143-153Itinerary of Tour in Yezo.　154
LETTER XLVII. A Dubious Climate—Missionary Ardour—A Political Move—An Opinion on the Government— Squeezes—Lack of Perseverance—A Japanese Ironclad—Realities of Progress.　155-160
LETTER XLVIII. Pleasant Last Impressions—The Japanese Junk—Ito Disappears—My Letter of Thanks—Official Letters—A Servant's Epistle—Japanese Epistolary Style.　161-165
LETTER XLIX. Pleasant Prospects—A Miserable Disappointment—Caught in a Typhoon—A Dense Fog—Alarmist Rumours—A Welcome at Tokiyo—The Last of the Mutineers.　166-167
NOTES ON TOKIYO.
A Metamorphosis— Magnificent Distances—Climate—The Castle—The Official Quarter—The Feudal Mansions of Yedo—Commercial Activity—The Canals—Streets and Shop Signs—Street Names.　168-183
NOTES ON TOKIYO—(Concluded.)
The Cemeteries—Cremation—Sharp Criticism—Stereotyped Ideas—Modern Constructive Art—The College of Engineering—Principal Dyer—The Telegraph Department—The Foreign Residents—Forms of Flattery—The Flower Festa—A Memory of Fuji—Costly Entertainments—The Brain of New Japan.　184-200
LETTER L. A Dirty Sky— Rags—Mr. Mori—A Ministerial Entertainment—The Shiba Pavilion—An Amateur Orchestra—The Japanese Wagner—An Aristocratic Belle—A Juvenile Danseuse—An Agonising Mystery—The Dead March in Saul—Japanese Music—Musical Instruments—Lady Parkes.　201-211
LETTER LI. The Hiroshima Maru—A Picturesque Fishing Fleet—A Kind Reception—A Mission Centre—A Model Settlement—The Native Town—Foreign Trade—The Girls' Home—Bible Classes—The First Christian Newspaper—Defects in Mission Schools—Manners and Etiquette— Missionary Manners—The Truth Foreshadowed—Separation in Foreign Society—A Vow.　212-223
LETTER LII. Mountain-girdled Kiyoto—Third-class Travelling—The Home of Art—The Kiyoto College—Captain Jayne—Mr. Davis—The Curriculum—Philosophical Ardour—Discussions and Difficulties—Total Abstinence—The First Christian Pastor—Japanese Impressions of Scotland—Increased Demand for the Christian Scriptures.　224-235
LETTER LIII. The Protestants of Buddhism—The English-Speaking—Priest—The Nishi-Honguwanji Temple—A Monto Altar—Nirvana—Hideyoshi's Summer Palace—Metempsychosis—Buddha as a Democrat—The Prospects of Christianity—The Priest's Estimate of Belief in England—The Conflict of Opinion in Japan—A Question.　236-246
LETTER LIV. Kiyoto Shopping—Artistic Patterns—Solitude in Decoration—A Japanese Etagere—Honest Work—Vitiation of Japanese Art—Kiyoto Brocades—The Board of Industries—The New Hospital.　247-252
LETTER LV. Hugging a Hibachi—A Japanese Institution—Industrious Poverty—Uji Tea-houses—Tea-making—Our First Evening—Nara—A Treasury of Antiquities—A Row of Petitioners—Inappropriate Travelling Gear—A Shrine of Pilgrimage—An Ancient Monastery—A Trudge Through Mud—Higenashi—Mushroom Culture—Roughing it—The High Road—A Rubbing Stone.　253-270
NOTES ON THE ISE SHRINES.
The Divine Palaces of the most holy Gods of Ise—Sanctity of the Ise Shrines—The Kami-dana—The Ise Charms—The Geku Camphor Groves—The Temple Grounds—The Sacred Enclosure—The Shrines—The Holy of Holies—The Japanese Regalia—The Shinto Mirror.　271-277
LETTER LVI. A Dreary Shrine—The Legend of Futami-sama—A Double Temple—A Street of Shops—The Naiku Shrine—Evening Shadows—The Melancholy of Shinto—Unsanctified Pilgrim Resorts.　278-281
LETTER LVII. My Kuruma-runner—Stupid Curiosity—The City of Tsu—A Buddhist Temple—Road Mending—The Pass of Tsuzuka—The Tokaido—Lake Biwa—The Temperance Pledge—A Matsuri.　282-291
Itinerary of Route from Kiyoto to Yamada (Shrines of Ise), and by Tsu to Kiyoto.　292
LETTER LVIII. Water-Ways in Osaka—Glimpses of Domestic Life—Ladies' Pets—The Position of Women—Imperial Example—The Medical Mission—A Japanese Benevolent Institution—A Comfortless Arrival—A Christian Gathering—The Prison at Otsu—Prospects of Christianity—Blankness of Heathenism.　293-305
LETTER LIX. Fine Weather—Cremation in Japan—The Governor of Tokiyo—An Awkward Question—An Insignificant Building—Economy in Funeral Expenses—Simplicity of the Cremation Process—The last of Japan.　306-310
A CHAPTER ON JAPANESE PUBLIC AFFAIRS.
The Old Regime—The End of Feudalism—The Oath of Progress—The New Government—The Army, Navy, and Police—The Post-Office—Railroads and Telegraphs—The Mercantile Marine—The Mint—The Currency—The Newspaper Press—The Penal Code—The Educational System—Finance and Taxation—The National Debt—Foreign Trade—Conclusion.　311-347
APPENDIX.
A.—Aino Words taken down at Biratori and Usu,Yezo.　349-353
B.—Notes on Shinto.　353-361
C.—Tables of the Estimated Revenue and Expenditure for the Financial Year 1879-80.　362-368
D.—Foreign Trade.　370-373
Index.　375-383

注　　記
VOL. I, VOL. II 各冊の背表紙に＜Miss Bird's Japan.＞。
VOL. I, VOL. II 各冊の表紙裏に＜Graham H. Hills.＞との貼紙。
VOL. I, VOL. II 各冊の裏表紙裏に＜BOUND BY W. BONE & SON 76 FLEET S. LONDON E. C.＞ との書店ラベル。
VOL. II の巻末に＜MR. MURRAY'S GENERAL LIST OF WORKS.＞。


記載書誌
WENCKSTERN I, p. 43. CORDIER, col. 631. TOYO BUNKO, p. 30. NIPPONALIA I, 1989.