497
Bird, Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy) (1831-1904)
Unbeaten tracks in Japan. 1881. 2 vols.
UNBEATEN TRACKS IN JAPAN, AN ACCOUNT OF TRAVELS ON HORSEBACK IN THE INTERIOR, INCLUDING VISITS TO THE ABORIGINES OF YEZO AND THE SHRINES OF NIKK
AND IS
, By ISABELLA L. BIRD, AUTHOR OF
A LADY'S LIFE IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS'
SIX MONTHS IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS' ETC. ETC. IN TWO VOLUMES.—VOL. I [-II]. WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
NEW YORK, G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS, 182 Fifth Avenue, 1881.
VOL. I. xxiii, 407 p., [2] leaves of plates. 22 cm.
VOL. II. xiii, 392 p., [1] leaf of plates. 22 cm.
[DS/809/Bi](00005071-00005072)
目 次
VOL. I.
CONTENTS OF VOL. I.
Introductory Chapter. 1
FIRST IMPRESSIONS.
First View of Japan—A Vision of Fujisan—A Hybrid City—Japanese Sampans—
Pullman Cars
—Undignified Locomotion—Paper Money—The Drawbacks of Japanese Travelling.
12-21
THE OLD AND THE NEW.
Sir Harry Parkes—An
Ambassador's Carriage
—Blurs and Hieroglyphs—Cart Coolies—A supposed Concession to Foreign Opinion—Regulations.
22-25
YEDO.
Yedo and T
kiy
—The Yokohama Railroad—The Effect of Misfits—The Plain of Yedo—Personal Peculiarities—First Impressions of T
kiy
—H. B. M's Legation—An English Home.
26-32
CUSTOMS AND DRESS.
Lifeless Heat—Street Sights in T
kiy
—The Foreign Concession—The Missionary Quarter—Architectural Vulgarities—The Imperial Gardens—Costume and Behaviour—Female Inelegance.
33-41
TEMPLES.
Narrow Grooves—Topics of Talk—A Pair of Ponies—The Shrines of Shiba—
Afternoon Tea
—The English Church.
42-45
CHINESE AND SERVANTS.
Dr. Hepburn—The Yokohama Bluff—
John Chinaman
—Chinese Compradores—Engaging a Servant—First Impressions of Ito—A Solemn Contract—The Food Question.
46-54
THEATRICAL.
Theatrical Reform—The Ancient Drama—The Modern Theatre—The Stage—The Opening of a Reformed Theatre—The Players—The Opening Address—Moral Reforms—Exasperating Noises—A Comic Pastoral.
55-63
WORSHIP.
Kwan-non Temple—Uniformity of Temple Architecture—A Kurama Expedition—A Perpetual Festival—The Ni-
—The Limbo of Vanity—Heathen Prayers—Binzuru—The Fox-God—A Group of Devils—Floral Monstrosities—Japanese Womankind—New Japan—An
l
gante.
64-81
THE JOURNEY BEGUN.
Fears—Travelling Equipments—Passports—Coolie Costume—A Yedo Diorama—Rice Culture—Tea Houses—A Traveller's Reception—The Inn at Kasukab
—Lack of Privacy—A Concourse of Noises—A Nocturnal Alarm—A Vision of Policemen—A Budget from Yedo.
82-96
FROM KASUKAB
TO NIKK
.
A Coolie falls ill—Peasant Costume—Varieties in Threshing—The Tochigi yadoya—Farming Villages—A Beautiful Region—An In Memoriam Avenue—A Doll's Street—Nikk
—The Journey's End—Coolie Kindliness.
97-106
KANAYA'S HOUSE.
A Japanese Idyll—Musical Stillness—My Rooms—Floral Decorations—Kanaya and his Household—Table Equipments.
107-110
NIKK
.
The Beauties of Nikk
—The Burial of Iy
yasu—The Approach to the great Shrines—The Yomei Gate—Gorgeous Decorations—Simplicity of the Mausoleum—The Shrine of Iy
mitsu—Religious Art of Japan and India—An Earthquake—Beauties of Wood-carving.
111-121
A WATERING-PLACE.
A Japanese Pack-horse and Pack-saddle—The Mountain-road to Chiuzenjii—A Deserted Village—The Pilgrim Season—Rose Azaleas—Yadoya and Attendant—A native Watering-place—The Sulphur Baths—A
Squeeze
—A welcome Arrival.
122-130
DOMESTIC LIFE.
Peaceful Monotony—A Japanese School—A dismal Ditty—Punishment—A Children's Party—A juvenile Belle—Female Names—A juvenile Drama—Needlework—Calligraphy—Kanaya—Daily Routine—An Evening's Entertainment—Planning Routes—The God-shelf.
131-140
EVENING EMPLOYMENTS.
Darkness visible—Nikk
Shops—Girls and Matrons—Night and Sleep—Parental Love—Childish Docility—Hairdressing—Skin Diseases—The Moxa—Acupuncture.
141-145
SHOPPING.
Shops and Shopping—Calculations—The Barber's Shop—A Paper Waterproof—Ito's Vanity—The Worship of Daikoku—Preparations for the Journey—Transport and Prices—Money and Measurements.
146-150
SCANT COSTUMES.
Comfort disappears—Fine Scenery—An Alarm—A Farmhouse—An unusual Costume—Bridling a Horse—Female Dress and Ugliness—Babies—My Mago—Beauties of the Kinugawa—A Buddhist Cemetery—Fujihara—My Servant—Horse-shoes—An absurd Mistake.
151-166
DIRT AND DISEASE.
A Fantastic Jumble—The
Quiver
of Poverty—The Watershed—From Bad to Worse—The Rice Planter's Holiday—A Diseased Crowd—Amateur Doctoring—The Hot Bath—Want of Cleanliness—Insanitary Houses—Rapid Eating—Premature Old Age.
167-173
HIGH FARMING.
A Japanese Ferry—The Wistaria Chinensis—The Crops—A Chinese Drug—Etiquette in Cultivation—A Corrugated Road—The Pass of Sanno—Various Vegetation—An Ungainly Undergrowth—Preponderance of Men—The Shrines of Nature-worship—Apparent Decay of Religion.
174-179
A MALARIOUS DISTRICT.
The Plain of Wakamatsu—A Noble Tree—Light Costume—The Takata Crowd—Japanese Paper—A Congress of Schoolmasters—Timidity of a Crowd—Bad Roads—Vicious Horses—Mountain Scenery—A Picturesque Inn—Swallowing a Fish-bone—Poverty and Suicide—An Inn-kitchen—England Unknown!—My Breakfast Disappears.
180-190
EXTREME FILTHINESS.
An Infamous Road—Monotonous Greenery—Abysmal Dirt—Low Lives—The Lacquer Tree—Lacquer Poisoning—The Wax Tree and Wax Candles—The Tsugawa Yadoya—Politeness—A Shipping Port—A
Foreign Devil.
191-195
A RIVER JOURNEY.
A Hurry—The Tsugawa Packet-boat—Running the Rapids—Fantastic Scenery—The River-life—Vineyards—Drying Barley—Summer Silence—The Outskirts of Niigata—The Church Mission House.
196-200
MISSIONS.
Christian Missions—Niigata as a Mission Station—The Two Missionaries—The Result of three Years of Work—Daily Preaching—The Medical Mission—The Hospital—Difficulties of Missionaries in Japan.
201-211
BUDDHISM.
Temple Street—Interior of a Temple—Resemblances between Buddhist and Roman Ritual—A Popular Preacher—Nirvana—Gentleness of Buddhism—Japanese distaste to
Eternal Life
—A new Obstacle in the way of Christianity.
212-217
NIIGATA.
Abominable Weather—Insect Pests—Absence of Foreign Trade—A refractory River—Progress—The Japanese City—Water Highways—Niigata Gardens—Ruth Fyson—The Winter Climate—A Population in Wadding.
218-224
THE SHOPS.
Mean Streets—Curio Shops—Idealised Tubs—Hair-Pins—Coarse Lacquer—Graven Images—Ecclesiastical Paraphernalia—Shoddy—Booksellers' Shops—Literature for Women—Careful Domestic Training—Literary Copyright—Book-Binding—Paper Lanterns—Blue China—Quack Medicines—Criticisms.
225-233
ADULTERATIONS.
The Absurd in Shopping—Sadness and Jubilation—Condensed Milk—Lemon Sugar—Essence of Coffee—Shameless Impositions—Rose Dentifrice—Ito—Provender for the Journey.
234-236
FOOD.
Fish and Soy—The Use of Game and Poultry—Varieties of Vegetables—The Raphanus sativus—Tastelessness of Fruits—Cakes and Sweetmeats—Cleanliness and Economy in Cooking—Cooking Utensils—Vivisection—Soups—Formal Entertainments—Beverages—The Diet of the Poor.
237-246
DISCOMFORTS.
The Canal-side at Niigata—Awful Loneliness—Courtesy—Dr. Palm's Tandem—A Noisy Matsuri—A Jolting Journey—The Mountain Villages—Winter Dismalness—An Out-of-the-world Hamlet—Crowded Dwellings—Riding a Cow—
Drunk and Disorderly
—An Enforced Rest—Local Discouragements—Heavy Loads—Absence of Beggary—Slow Travelling.
247-257
A PROSPEROUS DISTRICT.
Comely Kine—Japanese Criticism on a Foreign Usage—A Pleasant Halt—Renewed Courtesies—The Plain of Yonezawa—A Curious Mistake—The Mother's Memorial—The Judgments of Hades—Arrival at Komatsu—Stately Accommodation—Latitude in Speech—Silk and Silk Culture—A Vicious Horse—An Asiatic Arcadia—A Fashionable Watering-place—A Belle—
Godowns
—The God of Wealth.
258-273
A JAPANESE DOCTOR.
Prosperity—Convict Labour—A New Bridge—Yamagata—Intoxicating Forgeries—The Government Buildings—Bad Manners—A Filature—Snow Mountains—A Wretched Town.
274-288
A FEARFUL DISEASE.
The Effect of a Chicken—Poor Fare—Slow Travelling—Stone Ropes—Objects of Interest—Kak'k
—The Fatal Close—Predisposing Causes—A Great Fire—Security of the Kuras.
289-292
FUNERAL CEREMONIES.
Lunch in Public—A Grotesque Accident—Police Enquiries—Man or Woman?—A Melancholy Stare—A Vicious Horse—An Ill-favoured Town—A Disappointment—A Torii.
293-303
POLICEMEN.
A Casual Invitation—A Ludicrous Incident—Politeness of a Policeman—A Comfortless Sunday—An Outrageous Irruption—A Privileged Stare.
304-306
A HOSPITAL VISIT.
The Necessity of Firmness—Perplexing Misrepresentations—Gliding with the Stream—Suburban Residences—The Kubota Hospital—A Formal Reception—Bad Nursing—The Antiseptic Treatment—A Well-arranged Dispensary—The Normal School—Contrasts and Incongruities.
307-314
THE POLICE FORCE.
A Silk Factory—Employment for Women—A Police Escort—The Japanese Police Force—A Ruined Castle—The increasing Study of Law.
315-317
ITO'S VIRTUES AND FAULTS.
A Plague of Immoderate Rain
—A Confidential Servant—Ito's Diary—Ito's Excellences—Ito's Faults—A Prophecy of the Future of Japan—Curious Queries—Superfine English—Economical Travelling—The Japanese Pack-horse again.
318-322
A WEDDING CEREMONY.
The Symbolism of Seaweed—Afternoon Visitors—An Infant Prodigy—A Feat in Calligraphy—Child Worship—The Japanese Seal—A Borrowed Dress—Marriage Arrangements—A Trousseau—House Furniture—The Marriage Ceremony—A Wife's Position—Code of Morals for Women.
323-335
A HOLIDAY.
A Holiday Scene—A Matsuri—Attractions of the Revel—Matsuri Cars—Gods and Demons—Tableaux vivants—A possible Harbour—A Village Forge—Prosperity of Sak
Brewers—The Introduction of Sak
into Japan—Sak
and Revenue—A
great Sight.
336-344
A NARROW ESCAPE.
The Fatigues of Travelling—Torrents and Mud—Ito's Surliness—The Blind Shampooers—Guilds of the Blind—A supposed Monkey Theatre—A Suspended Ferry—A Difficult Transit—Perils on the Yonetsurugawa—A Boatman Drowned—Nocturnal Disturbances—A noisy Yadoya—Storm-bound Travellers—Hai! Hai!—More Nocturnal Disturbances.
345-355
SHIRASAWA.
Good-tempered Intoxication—The Effect of Sunshine—A tedious Altercation—
Harassed Interests
—Foreign Requirements—Village Doings—Homogeneity of Japan—Evening Occupations—Noisy Talk—Social Gatherings—Unfair Comparisons.
356-363
AN INUNDATION.
Torrents of Rain—An unpleasant Detention—Devastations produced by Floods—The Yadate Pass—The Force of Water—Difficulties thicken—A Primitive Yadoya—The Water rises.
364-371
CHILDREN'S GAMES.
Scanty Resources—Japanese Children—Children's Games—A sagacious Example—A Kite Competition—Alphabet Cards—Contagious Merriment—Popular Proverbs—Personal Privations.
372-378
THE TANABATA.
Hope deferred—Effects of the Flood—Activity of the Police—A Ramble in Disguise—The Tanabata Festival—Mr. Satow's Reputation—The Weaving Woman.
379-382
POPULAR SUPERSTITIONS.
A Lady's Toilet—Hair-Dressing—Paint and Cosmetics—Afternoon Visitors—Christian Converts—Popular Superstitions—Wraiths and Apparitions—Spiritualism—Omens and Dreams—Love and Revenge.
383-395
PRIMITIVE SIMPLICITY.
A Travelling Curiosity—Rude Dwellings—Primitive Simplicity—The Public Bath-house—Solemn Queries—The
Few Stripes
—A Trembling Hope.
396-400
END OF THE JOURNEY.
A hard Day's Journey—An Overturn—Nearing the Ocean—Joyful Excitement—Universal Greyness—Inopportune Policemen—A Stormy Voyage—A wild Welcome—A Windy Landing—The Journey's End.
401-407
VOL. II.
CONTENTS OF VOL. II.
YEZO.
Physical Characteristics—The Colonisation Department—The New Capital—The Fisheries—Hakodat
—A Vigilant Police—The
Hairy Ainos
—Yezo Fascinations.
1-10
THE MISSION WORK.
Form and Colour—A Windy Capital—Eccentricities in House Roofs—Social Dulness—Mission Agencies—A Disorderly Service—Daily Preaching—A Buddhist Temple—A Buddhist Sermon.
11-19
HAKODAT
.
Ito's Delinquency—
Missionary Manners
—A Predicted Failure—A Japanese Doctor—The Hakodat
Hospital—The Prison—Prison Amenities—Chrysanthemum Culture—The Bon Festival—A Holiday-making Crowd.
20-26
A CHANGE OF SCENERY.
A Lovely Sunset—An Official Letter—A
Front Horse
—Japanese Courtesy—Sedentary Amusements—The Steam Ferry—Coolies Abscond—A Team of Savages—A Drive of Horses—Floral Beauties—An Unbeaten Track—A Ghostly Dwelling—Solitude and Eeriness.
27-45
A MEETING.
The Harmonies of Nature—A Good Horse—A Single Discord—A Forest—Aino Ferrymen—
Les Puces! Les Puces!
—Baffled Explorers—Ito's Contempt for Ainos—An Aino Introduction.
46-49
LIVING WITH THE AINOS.
Savage Life—A Forest Track—Cleanly Villages—A Hospitable Reception—The Chief's Mother—The Evening Meal—A Savage S
ance—Libations to the Gods—Nocturnal Silence—Aino Courtesy—The Chief's Wife.
50-61
AINO HOSPITALITY.
A Supposed Act of Worship—Parental Tenderness—Morning Visits—Wretched Cultivation—Honesty and Generosity—A
Dug-out
—Female Occupations—The Ancient Fate—A New Arrival—A Perilous Prescription—The Shrine of Yoshitsun
—The Chief's Return.
62-73
SAVAGE LIFE.
Barrenness of Savage Life—Irreclaimable Savages—The Aino Physique—Female Comeliness—Torture and Ornament—Child Life—Docility and Obedience.
74-82
COSTUME AND CUSTOMS.
Aino Clothing—Holiday Dress—Domestic Architecture—Household Gods—Japanese Curios—The Necessaries of Life—Clay Soup—Arrow Poison—Arrow Traps—Female Occupations—Bark Cloth—The Art of Weaving.
83-95
RELIGION OF AINOS.
A Simple Nature Worship—Aino Gods—A Festival Song—Religious Intoxication—Bear Worship—The Annual Saturnalia—The Future State—Marriage and Divorce—Musical Instruments—Etiquette—The Chieftainship—Death and Burial—Old Age—Moral Qualities.
96-110
A TIPSY SCENE.
A Parting Gift—A Delicacy—Generosity—A Seaside Village—Pipichari's Advice—A Drunken Revel—Ito's Prophecies—The K
ch
's Illness—Patent Medicines.
111-114
VISIT TO A VOLCANO.
A Welcome Gift—Recent Changes—Volcanic Phenomena—Interesting Tufa Cones—An Aggressive Trailer—Semi-strangulation—A Fall into a Bear-trap—The —Shira
i Ainos—Horsebreaking and Cruelty.
115-124
A WET TRIP.
The Universal Language—The Yezo Corrals—A
Typhoon Rain
—Difficult Tracks—An Unenviable Ride—Drying Clothes—A Woman's Remorse.
125-128
A SURPRISE.
More than Peace
—Geographical Difficulties—Usu-taki—A Garden Region—Swimming the Osharu—A Dream of Beauty—A Sunset Effect—A Nocturnal Alarm—The Coast Ainos.
129-137
SOLITUDE.
The Sea-shore—A
Hairy Aino
—A Horse Fight—The Horses of Yezo—
Bad Mountains
—A Slight Accident—Magnificent Scenery—A Bleached Halting-Place—A Musty Room—Aino
Good-breeding.
138-144
THE MISSING LINK.
A Group of Fathers—The Lebung
Ainos—The Salisburia adiantifolia—A Family Group—The Missing Link—Oshamamb
—A Horse Fight—The River Yurapu—The Seaside—Sagacity of Crows—Outwitting a Dog—Aino Canoes—The Volcano of Komono-taki—The last Morning—Dodging Europeans.
145-156
Itinerary of Tour in Yezo.
157
JAPANESE PROGRESS.
A Dubious Climate—Missionary Ardour—A Political Move—An Opinion on the Government—
Squeezes
—Lack of Perseverance—A Japanese Ironclad—Realities of Progress.
158-163
COMPLIMENTS.
Pleasant Last Impressions—The Japanese Junk—Ito Disappears—My Letter of Thanks—Official Letters—A Servant's Epistle—Japanese Epistolary Style.
164-168
A CYCLONE.
Pleasant Prospects—A Miserable Disappointment—Caught in a Typhoon—A Dense Fog—Alarmist Rumours—A Welcome at T
kiy
—The Last of the Mutineers.
169-170
NOTES ON T
KIY
.
A Metamorphosis—
Magnificent Distances
—Climate—The Castle—The Official Quarter—The
Feudal Mansions of Yedo
—Commercial Activity—The Canals—Streets and Shop Signs—Street Names.
171-187
MODERN INSTITUTIONS.
The Cemeteries—Cremation—Sharp Criticism—Stereotyped Ideas—Modern Constructive Art—The College of Engineering—Principal Dyer—The Telegraph Department—The Foreign Residents—Forms of Flattery—The Flower Festa—A Memory of Fuji—Costly Entertainments—The Brain of New Japan.
188-205
A JAPANESE CONCERT.
A
Dirty Sky
—
Rags
—Mr. Mori—A Ministerial Entertainment—The
Shiba Pavilion
—An Amateur Orchestra—The Japanese Wagner—An Aristocratic Belle—A Juvenile Danseuse—An Agonising Mystery—The
Dead March
in Saul—Japanese Music—Musical Instruments—Lady Parkes.
206-216
A MISSIONARY CENTRE.
The Hiroshima Maru—A Picturesque Fishing Fleet—A Kind Reception—A Mission Centre—A Model Settlement—The Native Town—Foreign Trade—The Girls' Home—Bible Classes—The First Christian Newspaper—Defects in Mission Schools—Manners and Etiquette —
Missionary Manners
—The Truth Foreshadowed—Separation in Foreign Society—A Vow.
217-228
THE KIY
TO COLLEGE.
Mountain-girdled Kiy
to—Third-class Travelling—The Home of Art—The Kiy
to College—Captain Jayne—Mr. Davis—The Curriculum—Philosophical Ardour—Discussions and Difficulties—Total Abstinence—The First Christian Pastor—Japanese Impressions of Scotland —Increased Demand for the Christian Scriptures.
229-241
THE MONTO SECT.
The Protestants of Buddhism—The
English-Speaking
Priest—The Nishi-Honguwanji Temple—A Monto Altar—Nirvana—Hid
yoshi's Summer Palace—Metempsychosis—Buddha as a Democrat—The Prospects of Christianity—The Priest's Estimate of Belief in England—The Conflict of Opinion in Japan—A Question.
242-253
ARTISTIC TASTES.
Kiy
to Shopping—Artistic Patterns—Solitude in Decoration—A Japanese
tag
re—Honest Work—Vitiation of Japanese Art—Kiy
to Brocades—The Board of Industries—The New Hospital.
254-259
UJI.
Hugging a Hibachi—A Japanese
Institution
—Industrious Poverty—Uji Tea-houses—Tea-making—Our First Evening—Nara—A Treasury of Antiquities—A Row of Petitioners—Inappropriate Travelling Gear— A Shrine of Pilgrimage—An Ancient Monastery—A Trudge through Mud—Higenashi—Mushroom Culture—Roughing it—The High Road—A Rubbing Stone.
260-277
THE IS
SHRINES.
The Divine Palaces of the most holy gods of Is
—Sanctity of the Is
Shrines—The Kami-dana—The Is
Charms—The Gek
Camphor Groves—The Temple Grounds—The Sacred Enclosure—The Shrines—The
Holy of Holies
—The Japanese Regalia—The Shint
Mirror.
278-285
ANOTHER PILGRIMAGE.
A Dreary Shrine—The Legend of Futami-sama—A Double Temple—A Street of Shops—The Naik
Shrine—Evening Shadows—The Melancholy of Shint
—Unsanctified Pilgrim Resorts.
286-289
LAKE BIWA.
My Kuruma-runner—Stupid Curiosity—The City of Tsu—A Buddhist Temple—Road Mending—The Pass of Tsuzaka—The T
kaid
—Lake Biwa—The
Temperance Pledge
—A Matsuri.
290-300
Itinerary of Route from Kiy
to to Yamada (Shrines of Is
), and by Tsu to Kiy
to.
301
PROSPECTS OF CHRISTIANITY.
Water-Ways in
saka—Glimpses of Domestic Life—Ladies' Pets—The Position of Women—Imperial Example—The Medical Mission—A Japanese Benevolent Institution—A Comfortless Arrival—A Christian Gathering—The Prison at Otsu—Prospects of Christianity—Blankness of Heathenism.
302-314
CREMATION.
Fine Weather—Cremation in Japan—The Governor of T
kiy
—An Awkward Question—An Insignificant Building—Economy in Funeral Expenses—Simplicity of the Cremation Process—The Last of Japan.
315-319
JAPANESE PUBLIC AFFAIRS.
The Old R
gime—The End of Feudalism—The Oath of Progress—The New Government—The Army, Navy, and Police—The Post-Office—Railroads and Telegraphs—The Mercantile Marine—The Mint—The Currency—The Newspaper Press—The Penal Code—The Educational System—Finance and Taxation—The National Debt—Foreign Trade—Conclusion.
320-357
APPENDIX.
A.—Aino Words taken down at Biratori and Usu, Yezo.
359-362
B.—Notes on Shint
.
363-372
C.—Tables of the Estimated Revenue and Expenditure for the Financial Year 1879-80.
373-379
D.—Foreign Trade.
380-383
Index.
385-392
注 記
VOL. I, VOL. II 各冊の表紙に＜出世守大
天 弘法大師御作 鎌倉長谷寺＞との図像。
VOL. I の遊び紙第 2 葉と裏遊び紙第 2 葉および VOL. II の遊び紙第 2 葉に
Essniei N. Roberts Dec 14
1880' との書き込み。
複本：(00011826-00011827)
記載書誌
NIPPONALIA I, 1990. BLUM I, 216.