766　Tracy, Albert
Rambles through Japan without a guide.　1892.

Rambles through Japan WITHOUT A GUIDE. BY ALBERT TRACY.
LONDON: SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON & COMPANY, LIMITED, St. Dunstan's House, Fetter Lane, Fleet Street, E. C. 1892.
xiv, [2], 287 p. 19 cm.

[DS/809/Tr](00005293)


目　　次
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I. ARRIVAL IN JAPAN.
Off the coast—Our fellow-passengers—Yokohama—Stroll in the Japanese quarter—Bastile Day celebrated—Chinese in Yokohama—Their self-importance—The crossing of races—Honour or dishonour?　1
CHAPTER II. IN AND ABOUT TOKIO.
Comparison with Rome—City of magnificent distances—The jinrikisha-man—A visit to temples—The story of the forty-nine ronins—Japanese honour satisfied—Dinner at a Tokio restaurant—Difference of tastes—The children of the country—A brave boy.　11
CHAPTER III. AN EXCURSION IN THE COUNTRY.
An experimental trip—A morning ride—Luncheon at Ichakawa—Wayside tea-houses—Yawata—Superstition—First night at a Japanese country inn—A bath under difficulties.　2
CHAPTER IV. SAKURA.
A miserable night—Midnight feasts—Arrival at Sakura—The story of Sogoro—A martyr deified—Homeward bound—Second night's experience—Entertainment at supper—Arrival at Tokio.　29
CHAPTER V. A PILGRIMAGE TO NIKKO.
Excursion with a guide—The flea-bag—The Mikado's soldiers—A Buddhist subscription-list—Telegraphs and idols—Oyama silk-weaving—A girl at the loom—Wonders of an opera-glass—The great avenue of trees—Arrival at Nikko.　38
CHAPTER VI. NIKKO AND ITS SHRINES.
Temple architecture compared—Mausoleums and shrines—The Buddhist saint—The Assisi of Japan—Tomb of Iye-yasu—Pilgrim devotions—Nikko's ruins—Statues of Amida—Waku's desecration—Return journey—Foreign accommodation—Arrival at Tokio.　47
CHAPTER VII. PLANS AND PREPARATIONS.
The route decided—The mountain road—Decision to go alone—Disadvantages of being personally conducted—The squeezing process universal—Note for future excursionists.　60
CHAPTER VIII. OVERLAND TOWARD KIOTO.
A midnight start—Inquisitive fellow-passengers—Honjo—Stroll about the town—Prevalence of blindness—School children—The silk industry—Japanese bargains—Village industries—Crossing the Umezawa Pass—Arrival at Ozawa.　65
CHAPTER IX. A CROSS-COUNTRY EXCURSION.
Ironworks at Ozawa—A Japanese engineer—Exploration of a mine—First ride on native pony—Mio-gi-san—Attempts at conversation—Rustic bridges—Spiders and leeches—On the Naka-sen-do—Over Usui pass—Karuizawa—Chanting pilgrims.　84
CHAPTER X. ON THE NAKA-SEN-DO.
Pilgrims and prayers—Supplications for a penny—Oiwake by coach—Provoking experiences—Apparently a mirage—Mochidzuke—Fun at my expense—The long Wada pass—New costumes—Shimo no Suwa—Japanese dogs—Inherent gentleness of the people—A pious landlord.　100
CHAPTER XI. THE MOUNTAIN REGION.
The Shiwo-jiri Pass—Peculiar house architecture—A country bridge—Visit to Matsumoto—An inhospitable town—Return to Shiwo-jiri—Walk to Niyegawa—Mysteries of a magnifying-glass—Letter of introduction given—Hirosawa—Picturesque village—Singular female costume—Village industries—Beasts of burden.　117
CHAPTER XII. IN THE HEART OF JAPAN.
Agematsu—Magnificent scenery—Mountain mills—Village processions and dancing dragons—The artist in dough—Call from the schoolmaster—Lightning rods upon telegraph-poles—At whose suggestion?—Isumago—Magome Pass—On a pack-horse—A narrow bridge—Led by a woman—Oi—Comforts of Japanese inns.　133
CHAPTER XIII. MITAKE TO OTSU.
Across the Kisogawa—Bridge-building—Melons—Gifu and its silks—Seki-ga-hara—Akasaka—An honest friend—Samegai—Same inventions from universal needs—Lake Biwa—Steamboat to Otsu—Mi-i-dera monastery—A Japanese Samson—Ben-kei's giant soup-kettle.　157
CHAPTER XIV. KIOTO.
The ancient capital—Resemblance to Philadelphia—Deified statesmen—Temples—Nan-zen-ji monastery—The thousand images of Kwannon—The great bell—Cyclopian masonry—Temple of Kiyomidzu-dera—The sin-cleansing fountain—Nude sinners—Young Japan.　171
CHAPTER XV. THE CITY OF PEACE.
The mikado's palace—City hospital—Shimo-gamo temple—A freak of nature—Odd ceremonies—Temple of Nishi-hon-gwan-ji—Buddhist prayer-meeting—A youthful abbot—Chi-on-in monastery—Relics of antiquity—A manuscript fifteen centuries old—Musical floor—Stone Age in Japan—Kioto by night.　186
CHAPTER XVI. NARA AND KO-YA-SAN.
An inland excursion—Tea plantations—A stray Chinaman—Midnight alarms—Uji—Nara—An ancient city—A pagoda older than Westminster Abbey—The Dai-Butsu—The great bell—Votive offerings—A picture of terror—Saint Ko-bo Dai-shi—The holy mountain of Ko-ya-san—Hospitable monks.　206
CHAPTER XVII. OZAKA.
Descent of Ko-ya-san—Travelling acrobats—Sakai—Ozaka—The Take-shiki-ya—The castle of Ozaka—Stones twenty feet long—A September cyclone—Hotel tied down—River scenes—American missionaries—Calling upon converts—A Christian service—Japan already more than half Christian.　227
CHAPTER XVIII. ON THE INLAND SEA.
A native steamboat—Night voyage—Primitive accommodation—Boy!—Okayama—The American mission—Call upon the governor—A Buddhist's praise of Christianity—A Japanese prison visited—On the Inland Sea—Islands and villages—Disembarking in darkness—A solitary sail—Unpleasant apprehensions—Night ride in a jinrikisha—Arrival at Hiroshima.　250
CHAPTER XIX. HIROSHIMA TO NAGASAKI.
About Hiroshima—Hospital and schools—Call from the governor—Excursion to Miyajima—Fifteen miles at a stretch—Antiquities and relics—Dinner and poetry—Longest jinrikisha journey—Shimonoseki—Scene of the bombardment—The story of a wrong—Opinion of Sir E. J. Reed, M. P.—Voyage to Nagasaki—Last day in Japan—Steamships coaled by children—Off for China.　259
CHAPTER XX. THE PRESENT AND FUTURE OF JAPAN.
Statistics of population—Comparison with England—Death-rates—Physicians and hospitals—Marriage and divorce—Foreign residents—The work of the missionary—A laudable ignorance—Commercial ideals—European policy in the Orient—Lord Elgin on the war in China—The entanglement of Japan by treaty—Opinion of General Grant—His advice—The hope for the future.　270
Note.　286

注　　記
p. xiv の次の紙葉裏に＜A perfectly paternal government, a perfectly filial people, a community entirely self-supporting, peace within and without, no want, no ill-will between classes,—this is what I find in Japan in the year 1858, after one hundred years' exclusion of foreigners and foreign trade. Twenty years hence, what will be the contrast? ... God grant that in opening their country to the West we may not be bringing upon them misery and ruin.—Letters of Lord Elgin, during his mission to Japan (1858).＞との引用。


記載書誌
WENCKSTERN I, p. 50. CORDIER, col. 707. BLUM II, 2557.